I have just arrived in India today, the taxi driver is speeding along the potholed road, which suddenly becomes a single lane again and again because the recent storm has torn the pavement into the valley. The goat jumps to the side, as does the dark-clad man later in the pitch-black night. The taxi meanders past the wild procession, the young woman in the photocopying office smiles at me, as does the official who stamps my passport. I need a permit to be here. I have nothing prepared. Everyone helps. It's in the flow. The world isn't sinking into chaos here. Everyone knows that there is no world without chaos. So we snuggle up and swing along.